The Hunger Wall: A Quiet Slice of Prague's Past in Petřín Park

Tucked along the hillside of Petřín Park, the Hunger Wall is easy to overlook. But for curious travelers who like to wander beyond Prague's headline sights, it offers a peaceful and surprising look at the city's layered history.

The Hunger Wall has long been a favorite of mine. I know—a wall might seem like an odd pick, but hear me out. This one blends legend, a peaceful setting, and even a hidden garden.

I mean, who doesn't enjoy a 14th-century wall with a story behind it? It’s tucked into one of Prague’s greenest spots, climbs a hillside, and offers plenty of quiet viewpoints along the way. What’s not to like?

A Wall with a Story

The Hunger Wall (Hladová zeď in Czech) runs along the crest of Petřín Hill in Lesser Town. Built in the 14th century under Emperor Charles IV, the wall was originally part of Prague's fortification system. It was meant to defend the city, particularly Prague Castle and Malá Strana from attack.

But, actually, the name "Hunger Wall" didn't appear until later. According to legend, the wall was a public-works project during a famine in 1361, intended to give the poor paid work and food. Some stories even claim Charles IV helped build the wall himself. These tales are compelling, but likely myth. Historians believe construction began before the famine and that its primary purpose was military, not charitable.

Still, the story stuck, and the name with it.

The wall was originally about 4 to 4.5 meters (13-15 feet) tall and nearly 1.8 meters (6 feet) thick, stretching roughly 1,200 meters (4000 feet). Though parts have been restored over the centuries, much of what you see today is original.

Oh, and remember, the wall runs up the hillside for about half of this length. And it's pretty steep, rising 130 meters (427 feet) in elevation.

Bastion about midway up the hillside

View of Prague Castle through the Hunger Wall

Walking the Wall Through Petřín

The Hunger Wall courses up and across Petřín Park, so there are several ways to experience it - from a variety of access points. Here are 3 distinct routes to consider - each within Petřín Park. Whichever route you choose, you'll pass a few hidden corners of the park, scenic overlooks

1. Take Prague's wonderful funicular rail up to the top of Petřín. The station at the top is built adjacent to one of the wall's original bastions now the base of the Štefánik Observatory. From the top, the wall extends to your right and left as you exit. It's most immediately seen to your right where you can follow it toward Petřín Tower (below photo).
2. Start your walk from the west side of Petřín Park below Strahov Monastery. Follow the sidewalk through the park until you come to a long set of stairs. Take the stairs up to your right and you'll come up to the tower from the opposite side.
3. Enter Petřín Park from Malá Strana, near the tram stop Újezd (trams 9, 12, 20, 22). Across from tram stop you'll go up the stairs and walk to your right entering the park. At the fork in the sidewalk, turn to your left (don't cross the bridge over the funicular railway). Keep walking this way as the path steepens you'll eventually come to the wall. To get the full experience, continue following the sidewalk on this side as it leaves and returns back to the wall periodically. 

The walk is pleasant year-round, but especially nice in late spring or early fall when the leaves aren't too thick and the views open up.

This lookout is on the side of Petrin as you near the top.

More Than a Wall

Years ago we used to frequent this area with our young children. Any green space in Prague was a go-to spot for us, and many families. Spots like this always have a variety of playgrounds as well. But we particularly loved visiting the secret garden near the Hunger Wall. Well, it's not secret really, but lots of locals have no idea it exists - and that makes it secret to me. Find the garden by following the sidewalk that is parallel to the wall as it connects to the Štefánik Observatory. If you're walking downhill from the Observatory, the gate is on your right (see photo below).

Benches near the funicular station

What Else to See Nearby

The Hunger Wall is just one part of what makes Petřín Park a great spot to explore. Depending on your energy and time, you can link it with several other nearby sights:

• Petrín Lookout Tower: Often called Prague's mini Eiffel Tower, it sits atop the hill with great views over the city.
• Mirror Maze: A quick, quirky stop just next to the tower.
• Rose Garden: Just beyond the funicular's upper station, this small but lovely area is best in early summer.
  
• Kinský Garden: If you follow the lower part of the wall downhill, it leads into this quieter section of the hill. A short walk brings you to the wooden Church of St. Michael, relocated here from the Carpathians.

You could easily spend a few hours connecting these stops on foot. And because this area is less visited than Prague Castle or Old Town, it often feels like a break from the crowds.

Tips for Visiting the Hunger Wall

The Hunger Wall may not top every traveler's list, but for those who enjoy a slower day with a mix of history, nature, and quiet views, it's a worthwhile stop. Pair it with an exploration of Malá Strana, or even Prague Castle for a full morning or afternoon of low-key discovery. Here are a few details to consider when visiting...

• Start points: there are numerous starting points, but the least resistant way is to take the funicular from Ujezd up the hill. A standard tram ticket is applicable and transfers are free.
• Time needed: Plan for 2–3 hours if you're exploring the wall and nearby attractions.
• Food & drink: There are snack stands near the lookout tower and a cafe outside of the observatory. For full meal options, head to the area around Ujezd tram stop for many options.
• Best seasons: Spring and fall offer the most pleasant weather and clearest views. But, in winter is when you can really see the true breadth of the Hunger Wall and its trajectory up the steep hillside.

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